La Latina

Just about everyone likes to enjoy a drink or a meal outside when the weather's good, and the madrileños are no different. From April to October, Madrid's sidewalks and plazas are taken over by thousands of tables and chairs and bar life becomes terraza life. On a terraza, the cigarette smoke isn't as oppressive, the people-watching is great, and the drinking or dining experience takes on a new, light- and sound-filled dimension.

Madrid's got all sorts of terrazas, but some rules of thumb apply to the vast majority. First, be prepared to pay a bit more than inside. Most bars or restaurants add a price supplement for outdoor service, which is often around 10% (but so worth it!). Second, the best terrazas are nearly always full, so your best bet is to wait patiently, keeping your eye out for tables with empty drinks or plates. Respect the order of others who are waiting, but when it's your turn move quickly and assertively to avoid confrontations. Third, chances are service will be a bit slow. Many of these sidewalk cafés are understaffed for the number of tables they are serving, so, again, patience is a virtue. But relax, you're in Spain, and even in the capital things don't move very quickly.

Which terraza to pick? My main recommendation is to not patronize the ones in Plaza Mayor. Though the square is very pleasant, these terrazas tend to be pricey and low quality because the only people who go there are tourists. You'd do best to keep your eye out for people chattering in Spanish, to stay away from places with photos of the food they serve, and to check out any in the following barrios: