Then wander around the tiny labyrinthine streets and stairways that make up Alfama, the district of Lisbon that survived the earthquake. There are a few tiny boutiques hidden in Alfama, along with the residents of tiny houses. http://www.castelosaojorge.egeac.pt/desktopdefault.aspx?tabindex=0&tabid=34

São Pedro da Alcântara / Bairro Alto / Chiado. Get the Elevador da Glória from Avenida de Liberade, up to São Pedro da Alcântara (just turn right when you get out of the funicular) to see one of Lisbon’s best views from a viewing terrace and garden.   

Bairro Alto is the hub of Lisbon nightlife, but during the day is worth a look too, as there are some good retro, fashion and music shops to be found.  On weekend nights, it comes alive and is crowded.  It is full of bars and restaurants that fill up late at night.

Chiado is the area just below Bairro Alto and is where you will find all the shopping you might want.  There are the international chain stores you now see in every city, but if you walk down any side street you will find independent stores that may interest you more. There are also plenty of places to eat.  

Baixa/Terreira do Paço/Praça do Comércio The Baixa is famous as the Pombalino district, rebuilt by the Marquês do Pombal after the 1755 earthquake.  Built on a grid system, it is easy to walk through, and the main street down towards the river, Rua Augusta, is mostly pedestrianised.  Right by the river is Praça do Comércio, also known as Terreira do Paço, a huge square surrounded by ministry buildings.  It is also where the last king, Dom Carlos, was assassinated in 1908.  

Belém Get the number 15 tram to arrive in Belém (pronounced Be-lying).  There you will find the ultra modern Centro Cultural de Belém which houses the Berardo Collection, the biggest collection of modern art in the country (free entry).  The Mosteiro de Jerónimos is a huge 16th century monastery worth a visit for its beautiful cloisters as well as the archaeology museum housed inside. Both the monastery and the museum charge an entrance fee. The Jardim do Ultramar is right next to the monastery, a botanical garden with tropical specimens, and a beautiful green place for a wander.  Along the river towards the ocean, about 500m, is the Torre de Belém, another 16th century monument that looks out over the estuary and the ocean.  It is unthinkable for tourists and locals alike to leave Belém without having visited “Pasteís de Belém”, where the most famous and best pasteís de nata (a delectable custard tart) are sold straight from the oven.  

Expo/Oceanário At the other far end of the city, as the estuary bends up to the north is the EXPO 98 site, now the Parque das Nações, which, unlike many ex-EXPO sites, continues to thrive, and a whole new swathe of the city has grown up around it, with executive apartments and offices. The park itself is a lovely place to wander by the river, in a really modern setting.  There is a large shopping mall, Vasco da Gama, several restaurants and bars and the national aquarium (http://www.oceanario.pt/) which is really worth visiting with its otters and penguins as well as its huge collection of fish.  There is also a cable car and the Torre Vasco da Gama which has a lift to take you to the top if you like heights. Get to Parque das Nações by taking the metro to “Oriente”

Trams/Funiculars Lisbon has both modern and antique tram systems. The older trams are a lovely nostalgic way to get round parts of the city.  Tram 28 is a must do, as it takes you into the heart of Alfama, in a 1920s carriage.  There are three funiculars as well, that navigate some of the steepest hills of the city:  Elevador da Glória, Elevador de Bica, Elevador da Lavra that also run on century old equipment.

Essential Museums

Museu de Chiado
Contemporary Art
www.museudochiado-ipmuseus.pt

Museu de Azulejo
The traditional art of Portuguese tiles
www.mnazulejo-ipmuseus.pt

Museu de Oriente
The newly opened Oriental Musuem
www.foriente.pt/

The Gulbenkian Foundation Museum
Contemporary and World art, also with one of Lisbon’s best gardens
www.museu.gulbenkian.pt

Museu do Fado
The museum dedicated to the music of Fado and guitar music.
www.museudofado.egeac.pt

The River
From Cais do Sodré, take a ferry across to Cacilhas and back again to get a panoramic view of old Lisbon. Portugal boasts some of the clearest brightest light in Europe, and Lisbon glows beautifully on a sunny day.